These notes are in addition to the installation instructions you will get with the particular product you buy. Where there is a conflict, go with their instructions. I learned a lot from the tutorial on laminates at www.ifloor.com and I recommend you read it. They include an extensive listing of brands and products, with ratings. I also learned a couple things from the Pergo website instructions; www.pergo.com. Pergo has a videotape on installation, but I didn't find it very helpful. BTW, ifloor has great prices on the laminates, but you might be able to get the non-color-coordinated components and supplies cheaper at a home center.

Laminate Types
      There are two basic types: snap-together and glued. And there are many grades and qualities available from various manufacturers. The snap-together type is easy to install and installation goes fast. The glued type is much more water resistant. IMHO only the glued type should be used in bathrooms and kitchens and laundry rooms - wet rooms. Personally, I prefer the glued type for all applications because I believe it sounds more solid.

Quality Factors
      In reading the ifloor tutorial, note that there are a couple different thicknesses, there are a couple different backing materials, and there is some variation in the surface finish. Also realize that there may be more than one thickness of foam underlayment. My observation is that the thicker laminates and thicker underlayments give the quietest floor.

First Things First
      Order your material and leave it in the unopened packs in rooms near where it will be installed for at least 48 to 72 hours, to acclimate to the temperature and humidity. While it is doing that, you can prepare the rooms where it is to be installed.

Floor Preparation
      The laminate foam underlayment can absorb small bumps in the flooring, but you will get the best job if the floor is flat and clean. Do not even think about laying laminate over ceramic tile or carpet; however, you can lay it over ceramic tile if you first use a floor leveling compound.
      When we laid laminate in our place, it was replacing some vinyl tile, sheet vinyl, and carpet. When I pulled the carpet, I found some old sheet vinyl I had forgotten about. I removed the vinyl tile and all the sheet vinyl, as well as the carpet. I may not have needed to remove the vinyl tile and sheet, but I didn't want any question about how well it was fastened down around the edges. Also, you want the minimum thickness of floor covering in a kitchen so the dishwasher is not impacted. I used an 8" razor floor scraper, the heavy kind with a single blade; the weight worked in my favor. It was hard work but really didn't take all that long, and it left the concrete slab very smooth. I swept and vacuumed up the dust and then as I laid the 6-mil plastic, I swept up the fine dust with my hand.
      You may not feel it is necessary to go to those lengths to get the slab clean, and I won't argue with you. But by sweeping the floor clean with your hand, you can tell if it is as flat as you want.

Layout
      The general rule of thumb is to lay the planks across the field of view from the most important view point. For example, if you see the laminate in your family room from the entry of your home, you should lay the planks side to side across that view. The other rule is to run the planks the length of a hallway rather than across it. If these two rules conflict in your place, you will have to be the judge of which is most important, but I would consider the first rule the most important.
      When you start the installation, open up a couple cartons and lay them out in order on any convenient floor. You will probably note a repeating pattern on the planks in each carton. I would also expect that you will find the pattern at the end of one plank will line up with the beginning of the next plank, and so on. I recommend you stick a small piece of masking tape on each plank and number it, as it comes out of the carton to make this pattern matching easier. So you will have numbers 1 through 6, say, from each carton, and each number 1 will be identical. You want to continue the pattern matching in each row and you want to offset the pattern in adjacent rows. The end result will be an apparent random pattern.
      Next lay a few planks loose, end to end, across the length of the room to see how they end up at the far wall. You may want to adjust the position of the first plank so you do not have a very small end plank. Also check to see how the width of the planks will come out across the room in the other direction, so you don't end up with a sliver of a plank at the far side. More on this later.

Tools
      For a quality job you need to set the planks under door casings and jambs. The instructions will probably advise you to cut the bottom of these away by laying a handsaw on a scrap of material. This is a tedious process for a large job, and a backbreaker. Instead, rent a Crane jamb saw at Home Depot or a rental yard. This is basically a circular saw set on end in an adjustable frame. You adjust the frame for the thickness of the planks and the underlayment, and then cut each door jamb and casing. This takes just a fraction of the time and does a neater job. Rental of this saw should be something like $30 for a half day, and you can do the whole job in less than an hour in a typical home.
      The other major tool you will need is either a table saw or a power mitersaw to cut the ends of planks. Sooner or later you will also have to rip cut the width of one or more planks. These planks chew up even carbide blades, so for a large job, you may need two or three blades. One economical solution is to buy an inexpensive 10" benchtop table saw, or rent one. You can get a cheap Delta table saw for about $120, plus blades. You can get almost the same saw from Harbor Freight and Tools for less money, and they are frequently on sale for $90. The cuts you make will almost all be covered by quarter round or base shoe, so they could even be made with a circular saw.
      You should rent a Pergo Installation Kit, for about $35/day; this includes several strap clamps that will reach across the average room and also some adjustable spacers. You should also buy the inexpensive Pergo kit of wedges, tapping block, and pull bar.
      You will need scissors and/or utility knife to cut the plastic sheet used on concrete floors and the foam underlayment, plus pencils, etc as you would expect.

Supplies
      Obviously you will need the glue if you are using the glued type laminate. Use the glue recommended by the laminate manufacturer; I wouldn't substitute on this item. If you are laying the laminate over a concrete slab, you will need 6-mil plastic to lay on the floor. Pergo sells their own, but I am not convinced it is any better than the plastic you could get at a home center. If you are laying the laminate over sheet vinyl on concrete, you may not need the 6-mil plastic; go by the manufacturer's recommendations.

Starting The Job
      You have already laid out the first few planks to check the pattern, so start off with the real thing. I believe they recommend starting in the upper left corner because of the way the tongues and grooves are cut. Pergo tells you to lay the first plank without cutting, then cut 1/3rd off the first plank in the next row, and 2/3rds off the first plank in the third row. This process is continued across the width of the room. This staggering is very important for two reasons. One is that it makes the joints stronger and the other is that it gives a random pattern. I saw Pergo laid in a retail store (a flooring store, no less) where the installers did not stagger the rows. The effect was terrible and very obvious.
      If you are gluing, start using the strap clamps right away to clamp the planks both directions as you glue them. At this point a helper can be a real asset, if only to open cartons, number the planks, and hand them to you. You should start by gluing three rows of planks across the room, and then build the planks in a triangular fashion from there. Wipe off the excess glue immediately as you go; a big yellow sponge and water works well for this. Have your helper go over the surface after a bit with the same sponge wet in vinegar water. This is very effective at removing the glue, before it fully cures, and also works even on cured glue.
      Be sure the planks are pulled together tightly in both directions. Pergo advises that the joints may swell just a bit at first but that as the glue dries, this will go away.
      Where two areas of laminate could shift in relation to each other because of natural expansion/contraction, use a T-molding strip to join these areas. For example, if you have run the laminate down a hallway past a bathroom where you will also be using the laminate, it might be wise to allow the joint at the doorway to shift so the joint will not pull apart. The T-molding will cover the gap between the two areas.
      There are other special moldings available such as End Moldings for where the laminate butts up against exterior door thresholds or other hard surfaces, and Carpet Reducers for where the laminate meets carpeting. Pergo, and possibly others, can supply a small base molding but it looked pretty cheap.

Edge Sealing
      In wet rooms, seal the edge of the laminate with a permanent caulk. You can get a clear 50-year latex caulk by DAP that is easy to use and certainly adequate. I do not recommend silicone caulk because it is unreliable unless put on a perfect surface and it is messy to clean up. Apply the caulk and smooth it with a finger to assure adhesion. Use this also around the toilet flange in a bathroom.

Base Shoe
      You should place the planks so there is a gap of 1/4" or so all around the room. This gap should be covered with base shoe or quarter round. We liked the effect of the quarter round that matched the laminate, against painted base molding. With this combination, the base molding stands out and the quarter round blends with the floor.
      Installing base shoe or quarter round is very easy if you have access to a pneumatic brad nailer or finish nailer. Nail it to the wall or base molding, not the laminate.

Patching
      Nail holes in the quarter round and gaps between planks can be filled with the matching finishing putty, which is a color matched caulk.

Cleaning
      Normal cleaning couldn't be easier! Use a Swifter cleaning tool (about $15); these can use either a dry dusting pad or a damp cleaning pad. The dry pad is electrostatically charged to pull dust and hair out of crevices. For a vacuum, a long handled cordless vac is good (about $40). For a stubborn spill, use some vinegar in water, or any water-based household cleaner.