I like ceramic tile, and in normal situations, it is easy to install. I'm talking about tile on walls, counter tops, floors, and in showers. This discussion does not include marble or granite.
Types of Tile
There are several grades of tile, and when
you go shopping for it, you will see them all. The harder or porcelain
tiles are what I prefer. Not only are they more durable, but IMHO they
are more attractive. They come in all sizes from roughly lxl" mosaic
tiles up to 18x18" or even larger. Mosaic tiles and some small tiles are supplied as 12x12"
sheets, held together by a mesh backing; you install the tile sheets
with the backing in place. Some smaller tiles, up to about 4x4 (actually,
4-1/4" x 4-1/4") have a high gloss finish. There are places you can
use these, but they are generally not very tough. Don't use
them on floors or kitchen counters since they scratch easily.
In addition, you will find several types of
edging tiles: bull nose, double bull nose for corners, V-cap that goes
over the counter edge and corner V-cap, and quarter round tiles for edges,
along with corner quarter round. The quarter round edging is usually used to
cover the edge of backerboard. For example, if you installed backerboard over
drywall somewhere, the quarter round can cover that edge. For the edge
of a counter, you can use a bull nose tile on top and a half of a bull
nose tile on the face edge of the top, with the bull nose down. But I
prefer the V-cap edging on a kitchen counter because it is tougher. It
also has a raised lip to contain water on the counter top.
The bull nose tiles are the same size
as the field tiles. The V-cap and quarter round tiles are usually 6" long. In
some patterns there are special tiles for around sinks. Also, base molding
tiles for floors. Bull nose are generally sold by the square foot, but
other edging tiles are sold by the linear foot. Something the novice
will find odd is that while many tiles are 4-1/4" square, the matching
V-cap or quarter round tiles are 6" long. The reason is that it is
usually very difficult to line up the field tiles and edging tiles, so
with the longer edging tiles, you don't need to try to line up the grout
joints. However, if you are using the bull nose treatment on a counter edge,
line up the tiles on the top and the edge.
Check the tile size carefully. I have
seen some newer tiles in odd sizes, such as 4-1/2" square. At first glance, these
appear to be 4-1/4" square, but trying to match them to other 4-1/4" tiles can
be a disaster. I have no idea why these odd sizes are cropping up.
There are a couple types of pavers: Quarry tiles
that are hard and typically orange-red or dark tan in color, with a dull or
satin sheen; Mexican pavers that are sometimes quite irregular in shape, size and
color; Saltillo tiles that are similar to Mexican pavers but are more regular. The
Mexican pavers are soft and usually need to be sealed.
With all that, every time I go to a tile store,
they seem to have some new sizes and shapes. As an example, there are patterns
that are made from two or three sizes of the same or companion colors. Some
of these can be quite attractive. Bedrosian has a website that illustrates several
tile patterns that might give you some ideas.
Accent Tiles
There are places where you can use special accent
tiles to add some class to the design. There are slender "sizzle strips"
that can be used on walls; these are sometimes an accent color and usually
a special pattern like a rope or ridges. One way to use these is as a row
around the room just below the top row of bull nose tiles. They act like
a visual chair rail. They can be used similarly on a counter backsplash.
Another type of accent tile is a special color or
pattern of field tile used to break up the monotony of the field. These
can be a pressed flower pattern in the same color as the field tiles, for
example. Another type of accent would be a small tile or strip tile used
as a border around the outer edge of the floor. In a floor, large tiles can be
set with small companion tiles set diagonally in some of the corners.
Figuring the Amount of Tile
On a counter or wall, start by working out the
edging tiles and then go to the field tiles. Once you have the edging
worked out, the rest of the layout becomes easier. You will probably find it
easiest to figure the edging tile by the linear foot, and then count the double
bull nose or quarter round corner tiles you need. You usually buy field tile by the
square foot; field tile is the standard tile you use in the center of the
field, not including edging tiles. If you have figured out what you need
by the tile, the salesperson will convert that to square feet. Always allow
about 10% extra tile for breakage and odd cuts, except count the
exact number of corner tiles needed, and order a couple extra of these.
Tile Layout
Spend some time with this and you will be rewarded.
On a counter, you will probably have a sink somewhere. Center the tiles
side-to-side around the sink because this is a focal point, and work from
there. Use full tiles at the front of the counter and cut tiles in back
or on distant ends. If you find that the sink is just in the wrong place to get
the best tile layout, consider moving the sink slightly to improve the pattern. This
will require adjustment in the sink drain below, so think out the plan carefully
before committing.
For floor tiles, many sources talk about
snapping chalk lines and starting the layout from the center of the room.
I seldom find that satisfactory because it usually requires cutting all of the tiles
around the edges, and that gives a ragged or choppy appearance IMHO. I think it better to
consider first using full tiles at the door and work from there. Lay out some
tiles dry and see what looks best to you.
Floor tiles, particularly large square tiles, also look good when laid diagonally;
this breaks up the size of the room visually. "Railroading" tiles on a floor
(setting them straight in long rows) can be very distracting, and if your rows
are not perfectly straight, it will be very obvious.
Counter Tops
There are plumbing considerations on counters, and
you will have to decide on the sink mounting and positioning. There are two common types
of sinks for use with tile; the most common is the type that sets on top of the
tile, the "self rimming" or overlay type. These are easy to work with. For a kitchen sink,
you can sometimes get them with squared off corners so they can be set flush with
the tile. These give a nice appearance and there is no edge to catch water and food;
they make for very easy maintenance and cleanup. For this type of sink you need
a strong support that will hold the sink at the correct level with the tile, and
you may have to shim the sink to achieve this. If you are working with a plywood
top, you should add something like horizontal 1x4 or 2x4 bracing under the plywood
at the edge of the opening on the sides and possibly the back. If the sink cutout
is almost over cabinet structure below, additional bracing may not be needed.
Most kitchen and bath sinks have a rear lip
for the faucet mounting. With some bath sinks, the faucets will be mounted on
the counter nearby. It is important that in positioning the sink that you give
yourself enough clearance for mounting these items, including enough clearance to
get a wrench in there. The other factor is that if you are using a V-cap edge tile
in front of the sink, it is best to not trim that to fit around the sink. Most sinks come
with a template that you can use to mark the cutout.
Backing
Generally you need a tile backerboard under
tile set horizontally. A backerboard is more water resistant,
somewhat stiffer, and it gives a surface that the mortar will adhere to better.
It will also expand/contract much like the tile and separate the tile from the
expansion of the substrate. Hardibacker (my preference)
comes in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses and is
essentially waterproof. The various brands of cement board (Durock and
Wonder-board are two brands) are usually 1/2" thick and they are not waterproof.
Plus they are heavier and very hard on the hands and unpleasant to work with. I
have also had them fracture around fasteners and at the edges.
For these reasons, I avoid them. Denshield is a drywall type product with a water
resistant facing but it is not suitable for tile in wet locations; I don't
recommend using it. If the waterproof surface is damaged, the board is no longer
waterproof.
For a bath counter you can get by setting the
tile directly on plywood if it is fastened down solidly and supported well. But
it would be better to lay 1/4" Hardibacker over the plywood. You can also set
tile on synthetic marble ("cultured marble") or formica-type laminate if you rough
it up first with sandpaper. Laminate surfaces can fool you; you may think it is
on solidly only to find out later that it wasn't. It would be best to set 1/4"
Hardibacker over it to be sure. If you want to set tile on a synthetic marble
top with a molded sink, you will have to cut out the molded sink so it can be
replaced with a new sink. You can do this with any power saw you have with a
carbide blade, or with an angle grinder or a router. You may also have to grind
off a lip around the edge. For a kitchen counter you
should use a backerboard. You can use the 1/4" Hardibacker over plywood or
over the wood slats; if they seem loose, use 1/2" Hardibacker. Sometimes
it is better to use two layers of 1/4" Hardibacker and overlap the joints to
give a more solid base.
For any backerboard, allow about 1/8" gap
between sheets and don't allow four corners to come together anywhere.
Apply self-adhesive alkali resistant fiberglass mesh tape over the joints; you
can get this in the tile dept of a home center. Don't use drywall mesh tape.
As you set the tile, the joints will be filled with thinset to seal it. To install
Hardibacker, set it in thinset and screw it down every 8" each direction; if you want more
instructions for using Hardibacker, you can get them from their website. They
talk about scoring and snapping it but that has not worked too well for me. I
usually use a power saw with a carbide or dry diamond blade. The dust is not
pleasant; wear a mask. To make curved cuts, you can use a jig saw with a carbide
grit blade or just use a regular blade and expect it to be eaten up by the material.
For wall tile you can set the tile directly on
drywall if it is in a place where it will not get wet, like a backsplash on
a kitchen counter. Otherwise use 1/4" Hardibacker over
greenboard or drywall; cement the Hardibacker to the wall with thinset and
screw it to the studs every 8". If you are working with open
studs you should use 1/2" Hardibacker with roofing felt behind for a moisture barrier.
If you want a flush surface to adjacent
drywall, remove the drywall in the tile area and set 1/2" Hardibacker in
its place. Caulk that joint with a non-hardening caulk like butyl rubber or polyurethane
caulk. Silicone caulk is not satisfactory! Plan the layout so
the tile will cover that joint slightly.
For concrete slab floors, you don't
need any backing; concrete is about the best substrate for tile, if it
is in reasonable shape. If there are small cracks, lay wide fiberglass mesh tape over
them to help absorb any stress. For larger cracks that have been there a while,
use the same method. If the concrete level changes at a crack, you need
to smooth that out with an angle grinder or other power tool, and then use the
mesh tape. As you set the tile, the thinset mortar will fill these cracks,
through the mesh tape, and help stabilize them. The concrete slab must be reasonably
level since the tile will follow the level of the slab. Use a floor
leveling compound to fill depressions; you cannot depend upon the thinset to fill
them. You need a leveling compound that will adhere reliably to the concrete, such
as a latex fortified cement material.
For wood floors, you need more than
just 3/4" plywood or wood boards. If you have no noticeable bounce in the subfloor,
you may be able to use 1/2" Hardibacker over the wood. However, current practice calls
for a wood subfloor 1-1/8" minimum thickness under the backer. Cement it down with
thinset and screw it down. Tape the joints with alkali resistant
mesh tape; allow about a 1/8" gap between sheets. Stagger
joints and don't allow four corners to come together anywhere.
If you cannot get the 1/2" thickness, you can use two 1/4" layers cemented
together. Cement and tack screw the bottom layer down to keep it from shifting
and cement and screw the upper layer over it, with screws spaced every 8" each
direction. Be sure to stagger the sheets in the second layer; this is very
important. The latest thinking on cementing backerboard to a wood subfloor is
to use standard thinset; use latex modified thinset between layers of backerboard
and for the tile.
There are special screws to use with Hardibacker.
These have serrations under the head that will countersink better. The last time
I bought these, they had a square drive head and a driver bit was included in the
package. They worked very well! In a pinch you can use deck screws, as
long as you don't overdrive them; you can get them with a square-X head for
easier driving using a square bit. The heads will stick up a small amount but
this will be absorbed into the thinset layer as the tile is set. I have tried the
special screws made for the concrete boards and was disappointed in their performance;
they didn't countersink even as well as drywall screws. Nailing is allowed but I don't
think nails hold as well. The nails to use are roofing nails with a large head.
Uncoupling Membranes
In some situations an uncoupling membrane might be
the best backing material. I have seen these recommended by tile pros but have never
used them. The talk is of Schluter Ditra, and this information comes from their website.
This is a high density polyethylene mat with a patterned underside coated with fleece
to facilitate anchoring to the substrate. You use latex modified thinset to fasten it to
wood and unmodified thinset to fasten it to concrete. The top surface has a grid
pattern with undercut spaces to assure a firm fastening, and you use unmodified
thinset for the tile; modified thinset on top of the Ditra will not cure in a reasonable
time. I see the advantage of this product on a concrete basement floor where there is
a potential moisture problem, but I like the idea of Hardibacker over a wood subfloor.
Showers
Showers are in a class by themselves, and you
start with the base. A waterproof pan is required under the base of the shower. You
can use a hotmop tar waterproof pan or one of the newer plastic membrane
pans. Let me describe the process to see if you want to tackle this yourself;
I suggest you may want to have a pro make the base or at least the waterproof pan.
Start by positioning the drain, preferably at the
center of the base, but it can be offset. Connect the bottom half of the drain fitting
to the drain pipe and position it in place by whatever means necessary to hold it firmly.
The shower drain fitting comes
in two parts that clamp above and below the waterproof pan. You need a sloped mortar
base; slope of 1/4" per foot from that drain fitting to the outer walls. This is very
important to assure that any leakage will end up down the drain. Use a level to
establish that pre-slope and set small wood strips around the edges to give that slope.
You will need several strips of wood to act as screeds because you are working in
tight quarters and the distance from the drain to the sides and the corners is
different. Lay roofing felt on the subfloor and wire mesh or expanded metal over the
roofing felt. If this in on a concrete slab, paint the slab with latex additive instead
of laying roofing felt. Mix a small batch of mortar very stiff using latex additive instead
of water because it will be a thin layer; set it in place, screeding from the drain to
the outer screed strips. Make this layer of mortar as smooth as practical. You can leave the outer screed guides in place, or remove them and fill the space with mortar. This mortar
pre-slope will have to cure at least overnight and preferable 3-4 days for a hot mopped
pan.
Now create the waterproof pan. I have more faith
in a hot-mopped tar pan, so that is what I will describe. The shower curb in front
is typically three 2x4s stacked flat, to give a form about 4-1/2" high. I would
use pressure treated wood. Fasten them securely to the floor by nailing or with a
powder nailer on a slab. You will need 2x blocking between the studs at least
10" high all around; I suggest 2x12" blocks. Now lay out one layer of 30# roofing
felt over the inside of the shower bottom, up to the top of the blocking and over
the curb in front. Fold it neatly in place and fold the corners over themselves
to avoid cutting them. Piece this as necessary,
but as little as practical; staple it in place at the top of the blocking and on top
outside of the curb and at the bottom of the outside of the curb. Precut two more layers
of the roofing felt and set them aside for now. Slather on molten
tar with a small mop over all this roofing felt and seal any laps in the felt. Add the
second layer of felt in the hot tar. Poke it in place as tightly as practical with a wood block. Then slather on more molten tar to seal the seams and the face of this second
layer of roofing felt. Repeat this process for the third layer. You will end up with a
very solid waterproof pan with a tar face.
When it cools, locate the drain hole and
the bolt holes in the lower drain piece; cut tight clearance holes around the bolt holes
and the drain hole. Set the top drain piece in place and bolt it down. The tar does not
need to be molten for this step; just clamp the two halves of the drain on the waterproof
pan firmly. Note that there are three bolt holes and three other holes; the other holes
are the weep holes that allow leakage to go down the drain. Put a small amount of pea
gravel or cut up tile spacers around those weep holes to keep mortar from blocking them.
You now have a waterproof pan, and you need to test it to be sure it is indeed waterproof. Buy or borrow an expanding rubber plug for the drain,
set it in place down low in the drain and fill the pan with water. Mark or note the
water level and check it 24 hours later to see if you have lost any water. If all the
water is lost, look for a leak at the drain fitting, or more
likely, the plug was not fastened well enough. If just a little water was lost, look for
a leak in the pan, or the drain fitting may not be fastened tightly enough. With the pan holding water - a real confidence builder! - drain the water and proceed.
When using a plastic membrane pan, the
process is roughly the same. However, there is much greater risk of a tear in the pan
or leaking seams, and you will have to work with a plastic cleaner and solvent cememt.
For more details, with illustrations, get a copy of "Setting Tile" by Michael Byrne. He
talks up the plastic membrane method, but I read that he is backing away from it since
writing that book, if only because a homeowner may not have access to the materials.
A third material you can use for the pan is one of
the Schluter products. Read the material on their website.
Now on to the shower walls. Set 1/4" shim strips on the
studs above the pan and fasten 1/2" Hardibacker in place. The backer should rest on small blocks over the bottom of the pan to keep the backer from damaging the pan. First put a waterproof membrane on the wall studs behind the backer and overlapping the top of the
tar pan; roofing felt is preferred. Leave a small gap (no more than 1/8") between sheets of Hardibacker. Tape these joints with alkali resistant fiberglass tape; it is self-adhesive. Before setting the backer in place, coat the lower back of
the backer with a layer of modified thinset to brace it to the pan, and screw the backer
to the studs ABOVE the pan, on up. Also install a strip of backer on each side of the
shower opening. Be sure not to pierce the pan at any point. Remove the small blocks
from under the backer. Caulk that lower edge of the backer to assure that water will
not wick up into it; use butyl rubber or polyurethane caulk. Set the backer on the walls
all around. Except, you cannot use backer on the inside of the curb, because you do not
want to pierce it with fasteners. However, you can use the backer on the outside of the
curb.
Set wire mesh or expanded metal over the top of the
curb; crimp it so it hugs the curb. Extend this into the base of the shower a few inches,
and fasten it to the top outside of the curb, or stuff it behind the backer there.
Use a straightedge across the inside of the curb to assure that the metal does not extend
beyond the face of the backer inside on the walls. Mix a small amount of stiff modified
mortar and cover the inside face of the curb, level with the inside backer. Let that cure overnight.
To maintain the slope of the mortar base, put
masking tape around the inside of the walls, leveling it carefully. Now mix mortar
for the shower base. For all these
operations with the mortar in the base, you may be able to find bagged thick-bed
mortar mix made especially for "decks", meaning tile decks. Using that will be easier
than mixing your own from cement and sand, and more reliable. Mix it stiff; it should
hold together when you squeeze it into a ball, but should not squeeze through your
fingers. The mortar in the base will be thicker than at other points so far, so mix it
with water, not additive. Set a layer of mortar in the shower base and screed it enough to approximate
the 1/4" in one foot slope; this layer should be about half that needed. A wood float
is a good tool for this step. Lay wire mesh or expanded metal on that and continue
with the rest of the mortar. The inner level of the mortar at the drain should be below
the top of the drain by the thickness of the tile and thinset, and the outer level
of the mortar bed should be right up against your masking tape marker. You may want
to use a steel float for this finishing. Compact the mortar with the float and check
to be sure it is flat and sloped correctly.
Very critical step; what you end up with here will determine the surface level
of the tile. Note that we have not completed the top of the curb.
After the base mortar has set overnight, remove
the masking tape and tile the base. Proceed from there up the walls and inside the curb
with the first row of tile. Take pains with the level of the TOP of this bottom row
because it will set the stage for the rest of the walls. You will probably have to trim
tiles so the top comes out level.
Now tile the outside face of the curb. When doing this check with a level across the outside and inside tiles
to be sure there is an inward slope, and trim the bottom row of tiles so you have full tiles
in the top row. Typically the top of the curb is covered with two
rows of bull nose tiles; one row to the inside and one row to the outside, and these will
probably have to be cut and joined in the middle. Same for the sides of the opening.
The shower door is set over the
joint between the two rows of tiles. If the gap between the level of these tiles on the
curb and the pan over the top of the curb is deeper than about 1/4", partly fill it with thinset, leaving enough space
for the layer of thinset holding those tiles on the curb.
Where you have a tile backerboard meeting drywall
- like outside a shower or tub area - leave a small gap and caulk with butyl rubber or
polyurethane caulk. If you plan carefully, the tile can slightly cover that caulked
joint to hide it. When the tiling is completed, caulk the edge of the tile to the
drywall with latex tub and tile adhesive caulk. Don't substitute silicone caulk anywhere;
it is near impossible to get a reliable joint with it.