Cutting Tile
The best way is to use a diamond
blade wet saw; you can rent one. The blade feels smooth on the
edge but it is coated with a thin layer
of diamond dust; it must be kept cool during use, so that is why it is
run with water dripping on it. Make sure your water supply does not stop;
when it does, the blade will start to burn the tile and the blade will
be destroyed if you continue. It is usually very obvious when the blade
goes dry because it starts to screech. There are special wax crayons to mark
the tile cuts, or any crayon would probably work; a wax crayon mark will not wash off
with the water from a wet saw.
A typical wet saw is limited in the size of tile it will cut. If you have
to cut large tiles, particularly on the diagonal, you will probably have
to cut from two directions. When working with large tiles, most all of the
cutting will be hidden under base shoe, so that will not be a problem.
You can get small tile saws at home centers
that will work. They sell for something around $90, and they will cut larger tiles,
although more slowly. I bought one to cut large tiles on the diagonal but found
the miter guide too small. I took it back and bought a slightly larger model at $170
and used it on a complete kitchen counter job with porcelain tile. I did that because it was lighter weight and I could move it to the site easier. I was pleasantly surprised that
it did the job very well. About halfway through the job it became obvious that the blade
was getting dull. I got a replacement blade (of another brand) it it completed the job with ease. The only limitation was that it could not handle the V-cap edging well because
the blade was too small (7"). I recommend this model by PlasPlug; if you plan a large
tile job, it would be worth buying it. You will find it slower than a professional tile
saw and you will have to improvise for thicker pieces like V-cap edging, but it will
otherwise do the job. If you will be using porcelain tile, get a replacement blade
right off.
Next best way is to use a dry diamond blade in
a table saw. This blade looks different and it makes a wider cut that is
not as smooth. These do work, and if you do not have a lot of cutting to
do, they are a good way to go. You can buy them at a home center; the last one I
bought was less than $20. I used a dry diamond blade on a job a
while back specifically because it made a more ragged cut; I was working with
a tile that had rough edges and this cut better matched the edges. Be aware that
tile dust is hard on a table saw.
You can rent or borrow tile cutters that have
a small carbide wheel like a glass cutter with a lever action to press it hard against the
tile. These are hard to use and you will end up wasting some tile; I
really don't recommend them. They will not cut V-cap edging.
The last resort in cutting tile is to use nippers,
and in any extensive tile job, you can expect to need them sooner or later.
This is an inexpensive tool that looks something like pliers. The cutting
edges are hardened and they can be used to nibble out an odd shape. Nibble out small
pieces, patiently, or you may crack the tile. Use care and protect your eyes from
flying chips. These might be what you need to finish off a cut made by a small
tile saw. You can also use a RotoZip tool with a tile cutter bit to cut
special shapes and holes in tile, but the cutters may not last long. Cutting
the opening for the sink can be done freehand on a wetsaw
or dry diamond saw, and you may end up using the nippers for trimming.
Cutting tile for a counter usually involves trimming
the width of the back row of tiles. These cuts will show, so they must
be neat; use some sort of cutting guide so they all come out the same and straight.
Place these cut tiles so the cut edge is not exposed, if at all possible, or
position the cut edge to the back. Two
reasons: the core of some tiles is not the same color as the face, and the
cut edge will be sharp and will stick up higher than the rounded edge of
the other tiles. You can sand this sharp edge with sandpaper or you can use
a tile stone. This is an inexpensive white stone used to smooth tile edges;
you can get one at a home center, and they work better than sandpaper.
In setting tile, you cut it as you go for the most
part because it is difficult to measure that precisely in advance. You will
come on situations when you can cut several tiles to the same dimension,
but do so cautiously.
To cut round holes for faucets, buy or rent
a carbide hole saw made for that purpose. Some suggest wetting the area or
cutting the hole under water to keep chips under control and make a neater hole.
Alternatively you can cut the tile in half and nibble out the round opening. Third
option is to use a RotoZip tool.
Thinset Mortar
Thinset mortar has been around a while and it works,
but the latex modified thinset is more adhesive and resilient and reliable.
This is thinset mixed with the latex or acrylic additive instead of water.
Many tile pros do not use it because it costs a few dollars more, but I have
had to repair professionally set tile where regular thinset was used. James Hardie
recommends using the latex modified thinset and I have switched to using it
for all my tile work. Be aware that thinset works only in thin layers; it
is meant to be used in layers no thicker than about 1/16". You can get by
with small areas of thicker layers in backer joints and the like, but
these thick layers take much longer to cure and must be protected until
they do.
Absolutely do not use pre-mixed thinset or grout.
These are little more than caulk and they are very unreliable. They have to dry by
evaporation. In fact, if used under some tiles, there can be no evaporation and
they just will not dry at all.
You can now buy thinset mix in a bag with the additive
included; just add water. One brand is FlexiBond, and I highly recommend
it; it is actually cheaper than mixing your own, and it mixes smoother. However,
I read that in tough situations, you should mix your own by using standard thinset,
using the latex additive instead of water.
The modified thinset will adhere to slick surfaces
like formica and "cultured marble" counters. Sand these surfaces lightly
to cut the gloss. Do not try to set tile on a formica counter if it is
coming up; the surface must be solid.
The modified thinset will also adhere to clothing
and hands, etc! Wear disposable plastic gloves and old clothes. I usually
mix the thinset in a drywall compound stainless steel tray; I use a margin
trowel, or you can use a 4" putty knife. A margin trowel is typically 2"
wide and has an offset handle that makes it easy to use in a mixing tray
or container. Important: Clean up your mixing tray and tools right away after working
with the modified thinset or they will be very hard to get clean. You can
clean them with water and a potscrubber sponge. After it sets up, the
only way to clean it off is by sanding.
Setting The Tile
Best to start with the edge of a counter and
work back. If you are using the bull nose edge treatment, you can temporarily
fasten a board to the face of the cabinet to support the edge tiles. Also masking
tape or duct tape will hold tiles in place until the mortar sets up.
For a wall, you must start at the bottom. For a floor, it would
be smart to start at the far end so you can work your way out the door, but that
may not allow the pattern set you want. So you may be forced to work from
the door in. In that case, as you get to the limit of your reach, let the
tile set for a couple hours and come back to finish later, when you can kneel
on the tile you set earlier. Lay a piece of plywood over it to spread
the load. Follow your original layout in all cases, placing the cut tiles
in the least conspicuous place.
If you are tiling a large surface, you must
consider expansion/contraction of the tile and other materials. For an inside
floor, leave one grout space ungrouted in the middle if the floor is longer than
about 30'. For outside applications that are exposed to sunlight, it is recommended
that an expansion joint be left each 12'. After grouting the rest of the tile,
fill these expansion joints with a color matched caulk that should be available
at a home center or tile store.
You lay the thinset with a notched trowel. Usually
a 1/8" or 3/16" square notch for a counter or wall, and a 1/4" square notch for floors.
For very large floor tile, a 1/2" notch may be called for. When the tile
is pushed down (or hammered down) into the thinset, it flattens under the
tile. For best adhesion, particularly on a floor, also spread a thin flat
layer of thinset on the back of each tile. This will eliminate the hollow
sound you sometimes get on floor tile.
Many smaller tiles come with spacing nibs or lugs
that pretty well set the spacing for you; this is particularly true for tile
used on counters and walls. This generally gives a narrow space for use with
unsanded grout. Otherwise use plastic tile spacers at the corner of each tile.
The size of spacer you choose will determine the tile spacing and the
grout width. For the bottom row of wall tiles, you may want to get some
plastic wedges to prop up the tiles, or you can use the other spacers
set on edge. Strips of cardboard cut from the tile boxes also work to
prop up the first row of wall tile or backsplash tiles to give an even line.
Look back over the tile you have set every now
and then to be sure it has not shifted, and adjust as necessary. In the
worst case, if you see a tile that is out of place and it won't budge,
pry it out and scrape off the thinset and try again. A paint can opener works
nicely to pry up a tile.
Grouting
You can use grout as a neutral filler
between the tile or as an accent color. Counter tile is frequently set with white
grout, if narrow, and with an accent color if wider. Be cautious using a high
contrast as you may tire of it later. Darker grout is harder to work with
because it is more difficult to remove the excess and it stains your sponge.
There are two types of grout: sanded grout for joints of 1/8" or
wider, and unsanded grout for narrower joints. You will see a large selection
of colors of both types at home centers. Most that I see are a poly blend
that includes an additive, so just mix with water. You can usually see samples of
grout to make color selection easier, or at least a printed color chart. Grout
dries lighter than when it is first mixed, and sometimes dries lighter than
shown on the color chart. If you have a problem with this, you can use a grout
stain to darken the color. These stains usually include a sealer.
Wait for two or three days after tiling before
you grout; this gives the thinset time to cure. If you do not wait, you
may end up with blotchy color on the grout.
Before grouting, you must remove the plastic tile
spacers. I have seen jobs where this was not done and the grout chips
off the spacers to expose them; looks terrible! There is a special tool with a hook end
for this purpose; it is available at home centers and is not expensive.
However, I have had better luck removing the spacers with long nose pliers.
Whatever tool you use, press down on the tile as you pry up on the spacer,
to be sure you don't pop a tile loose. These spacers can be reused, if you wish.
After you remove the spacers,
remove excess thinset from the top corners of the tile; you can use a single
edge razor blade for this. If the thinset is too high in the spaces, knock
it down so there will be adequate depth for the grout. You can use the tile
spacer pick for this or a utility knife or even an expendable screwdriver. When
through with this cleanup, vacuum the area to pick up the debris.
Mix the grout in the same tray you used for the
thinset, and follow directions. It may start to set up in the tray as
you apply it; do not add more water, just stir it. Dump a gob of
grout on the surface and then spread it with a grout float; move the float
diagonally for the final wipe. This float has a rubber face that makes it
easy to force the grout into the spaces. As the grout starts to set up,
wipe it off the face of the tile with one of those large yellow sponges,
wetted in water, of course. Wring it out to make it as dry as possible; if
it is too wet, it will cause the grout to turn lighter than expected. Move the
sponge diagonally so you don't damage the grout in the spaces. You can smooth
the grout with a finger, if all else fails. Then after
you see a grout haze starting to develop, wipe it off with a towel, or two.
Use expendable towels! As the grout dries, you will probably see more haze
on the face of the tile; you can buff that off with a dry tile buffer. This
is an inexpensive tool about 4xll", with a handle, with a white Scotch Brite
pad. As the pad gets full of grout, it can be pulled off the frame and
shaken out, or replaced with a new one.
It is very important that you do the cleanup right
away; if you leave it to the next day, it will be a horribly difficult task that
will take much longer that it should have.
The first time you grout, you may have trouble
with the timing of the sponge and towel wiping. The only way to learn
is to do it, and develop your own technique. Worst case, you may have
to apply more grout, if you wiped out too much. For this reason, don't
throw out the excess grout until you are through. If you do this right away,
it will adhere ok and will not show. If you come back to the job the next
day and see grout haze, the tile buffer will probably remove it ok. Or use a
wet potscrubber sponge followed by a dry towel. If you see a gob of grout
somewhere, a single edge razor blade will take it off. If you see grout
that is slightly rough, you can sand it, but do this cautiously.
Floor Edge Treatment
Tile against a base board or a cabinet
needs some sort of finishing. Many tile pros just fill the gap with grout
but that can look a bit ragged, particularly if the grout color is a sharp
contrast to the tile. Plus, that makes no allowance for expansion and
contraction. I have heard horror stories of tile in the middle of the floor
buckling because there was no room for expansion. Instead, leave a gap around
the edge of the floor and cover that gap with base shoe or quarter round.
Base shoe is traditionally shaped like reduced width quarter round; instead of
3/4" quarter round, it might be 3/4" high and only 1/2" wide. This base shoe
is generally painted (or stained) the same color as the base molding.
Sealing
There are several types of sealers for tile and
grout, available at home centers. Normally you would not seal the tile,
just the grout. The exception is some porous paver tiles. Wait for two
or three days before sealing, or whatever the sealing instructions say. Read
directions on these products to be sure you have the right one before buying.
Do not use the old silicone grout sealer; it doesn't last. The newer ones
are an acrylic. I have heard a lot of praise of AquaMix Gold sealer, the 15-year
product. It is expensive but it doesn't take much. The purpose of the sealer is
to reduce the possibility of staining, so they are particularly important in the
kitchen, but I would use a sealer on any tile job.